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| Headphone Amps (full-size) Discussion of desktop headphone amps. |

10-24-2008, 02:42 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: UCLA
Posts: 42
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New problem(?) with my unit. Sometimes when I play a song, there would be crackling throughout the song, which corrects itself if I restart the song. The only digital out (of the correct size, I have no adapters) I have on my computer is the onboard sound card which I have not used before, at all. I've plugged phones directly into the card and they don't experience this once-in-a-while crackling sound. Is this a DAC problem, opamp problem, or just a soundcard problem?
Also, selecting 192KHz output from the soundcard makes the DAC board do a clicking sound but produces no sound.
I'm obviously not very technically proficient about DACs and soundcards, so assistance would be appreciated.
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10-24-2008, 02:58 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Porto, Portugal
Posts: 439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syg
New problem(?) with my unit. Sometimes when I play a song, there would be crackling throughout the song, which corrects itself if I restart the song. The only digital out (of the correct size, I have no adapters) I have on my computer is the onboard sound card which I have not used before, at all. I've plugged phones directly into the card and they don't experience this once-in-a-while crackling sound. Is this a DAC problem, opamp problem, or just a soundcard problem?
Also, selecting 192KHz output from the soundcard makes the DAC board do a clicking sound but produces no sound.
I'm obviously not very technically proficient about DACs and soundcards, so assistance would be appreciated.
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Are you using optical? 192KHz is only possible with coax, not optical, and you really won't have any benefit to upscaling imho, just keep it at 44hz or whatever the source material is, bit-perfect.
I've had crackling once or twice, and it was interference from the powerline in my case. Try to move the dac, and make sure you do not have something like fluorescent bulb or perhaps a dimmer switch, those can cause hums and interference. Cellphones may also cause such crackling.
__________________
PC (WASAPI) → AMB/Mr.X γ1 (W.I.P) → Pure Silver m-RCA D.I.Y → Millett Hybrid MiniMAX D.I.Y (W.I.P) / AMB Mini³ D.I.Y → Sennheiser HD-650 / Grado RS-80
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10-24-2008, 03:05 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 139
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I have a couple relatives in China, so I want to buy two audio-gd's
Should I go for earth and moon? What would be best sounding, or most fun?
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10-24-2008, 03:40 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: UCLA
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMnEd
Are you using optical? 192KHz is only possible with coax, not optical, and you really won't have any benefit to upscaling imho, just keep it at 44hz or whatever the source material is, bit-perfect.
I've had crackling once or twice, and it was interference from the powerline in my case. Try to move the dac, and make sure you do not have something like fluorescent bulb or perhaps a dimmer switch, those can cause hums and interference. Cellphones may also cause such crackling.
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I am using coax, actually.
I don't think the crackling is interference, because as I've said, the crackling fixes itself when I restart the song. It seems like a problem on the computer end with the data it's sending on the cable? I dunno.
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10-24-2008, 03:42 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomasdf
I have a couple relatives in China
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Sweet!! Now tell them to go to Lawrence and kick his ass and tell him to send me my damn zero parts...
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10-24-2008, 04:56 AM
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500+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NY, NY
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syg
I am using coax, actually.
I don't think the crackling is interference, because as I've said, the crackling fixes itself when I restart the song. It seems like a problem on the computer end with the data it's sending on the cable? I dunno.
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I've heard people complain about this problem with built-in cards in the past - was one (of several) reasons I bought a discrete sound card. It may (unfortunately) be the digital out of the card. If you've never used the sound card before, what have you used instead? If you have a card with a mini-optical out (like x-fi) it would be worth it to get a cable for that. They aren't expensive really.
__________________
Xfi Fatal1ty (Coax, ASIO)-->Compass (OPA Sun V2)-->Little Dot MKIII (GE 5-star)-->HD600/SR325is/HFI-780 (S-Audio recable)/DT250-80
Gone: SR80, SR225, Sony 7506
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10-24-2008, 05:06 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: UCLA
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieB
I've heard people complain about this problem with built-in cards in the past - was one (of several) reasons I bought a discrete sound card. It may (unfortunately) be the digital out of the card. If you've never used the sound card before, what have you used instead? If you have a card with a mini-optical out (like x-fi) it would be worth it to get a cable for that. They aren't expensive really.
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Indeed that's the case, I have an Audigy 2 Gamer I use for my headset with a mini-coax out. I just haven't gotten around to buying a mini-to-RCA converter yet. Also I liked the idea of not having to unplug my headset to plug in my DAC everytime I wanted to do something other than game. Oh well!
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10-24-2008, 05:40 AM
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500+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NY, NY
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syg
Indeed that's the case, I have an Audigy 2 Gamer I use for my headset with a mini-coax out. I just haven't gotten around to buying a mini-to-RCA converter yet. Also I liked the idea of not having to unplug my headset to plug in my DAC everytime I wanted to do something other than game. Oh well!
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OK check this out:
CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER AUDIGY 2zs WITH BREAKOUT BOX*NR* - eBay (item 170272880894 end time Oct-26-08 19:02:43 PDT)
That means there was a breakout box made for that series, no?
Or maybe even the ones for the x-fis might work? I love that thing - was one of the reasons I got the card I did. The headphone jack served my Grado's quite well... for a while. Anyway if you could find one of those cheap it would solve all your problems and keep both DAC and headset digital.
Heh just a thought.
__________________
Xfi Fatal1ty (Coax, ASIO)-->Compass (OPA Sun V2)-->Little Dot MKIII (GE 5-star)-->HD600/SR325is/HFI-780 (S-Audio recable)/DT250-80
Gone: SR80, SR225, Sony 7506
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10-24-2008, 07:46 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: GreaterTorontoArea in Sub-Urbaine hell
Posts: 3,080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bundee1
hey peete I remember way back when someone posted pictures of their hdam next to the transformer and you said it was ok. I wanted to do the same because I got my 200mm extension today. I figured since it was closer to the vent it would help with cooling. Would the transformer mess with the sound quality or cause interference?
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Hi bundee1,
You should be alright if you want to move it back...you'll have to add an extension lead to your ground wire to reach the Jack assembly ground pin though.
Peete.
__________________
Cans :HD650, AKG 240M (HD650 DIY cables SE and Balanced)
Desktop amps : LD MK III (6H30P-i DR's + DIY mods, Jaycar DIY kit amp (major DIY mods), 2 X Audio-gd Compass (test prototype,final version), Audio-gd C-2C W/ Stepped pot Upgrade, Audio-gd Phoenix SS balanced preamp/headamp.
Transports: Auzen Prelude PCI 7.1 SC/ASIO native driver using Media Monkey (all EAC ripped FLAC/Wav), Vanguard CDM12 Pro (BNC mod), HK HD720 (completely upgraded), Audio-gd CD7 Transport.
Sources: FrankenDAC DIY 24/192 dac (HDAMs/Teflon/PIO cap mod), Compass DAC, See Corp Vintage UK TT(Mission arm/Ortofon OM20S MM cart), Yaqin MS12B tube phono preamp, TEAC V530X Tape deck, Audio-gd Reference 1 DAC. C2C DIY pot mod http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ste...1/#post5846722
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10-24-2008, 07:54 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: GreaterTorontoArea in Sub-Urbaine hell
Posts: 3,080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syg
New problem(?) with my unit. Sometimes when I play a song, there would be crackling throughout the song, which corrects itself if I restart the song. The only digital out (of the correct size, I have no adapters) I have on my computer is the onboard sound card which I have not used before, at all. I've plugged phones directly into the card and they don't experience this once-in-a-while crackling sound. Is this a DAC problem, opamp problem, or just a soundcard problem?
Also, selecting 192KHz output from the soundcard makes the DAC board do a clicking sound but produces no sound.
I'm obviously not very technically proficient about DACs and soundcards, so assistance would be appreciated.
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Drop your sample rate back to either 44.1 khz as DaMnEd suggests or 96/88.2, you'll get no real benefit from 192, 96, 88.2, or 48 khz anyway. Hi rez files are another story (most are at 24/96, some at 24/192 with the most common 24/48 ). If you want to up sample choose 48, 88.2 or 96 khz. 88.2 is a simple 2 X multiple and should not give an decent SC a problem with the math.
Try 44.1 bit perfect for a while. I find I prefer it greatly over up sampling. YMMV of course
Peete.
__________________
Cans :HD650, AKG 240M (HD650 DIY cables SE and Balanced)
Desktop amps : LD MK III (6H30P-i DR's + DIY mods, Jaycar DIY kit amp (major DIY mods), 2 X Audio-gd Compass (test prototype,final version), Audio-gd C-2C W/ Stepped pot Upgrade, Audio-gd Phoenix SS balanced preamp/headamp.
Transports: Auzen Prelude PCI 7.1 SC/ASIO native driver using Media Monkey (all EAC ripped FLAC/Wav), Vanguard CDM12 Pro (BNC mod), HK HD720 (completely upgraded), Audio-gd CD7 Transport.
Sources: FrankenDAC DIY 24/192 dac (HDAMs/Teflon/PIO cap mod), Compass DAC, See Corp Vintage UK TT(Mission arm/Ortofon OM20S MM cart), Yaqin MS12B tube phono preamp, TEAC V530X Tape deck, Audio-gd Reference 1 DAC. C2C DIY pot mod http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ste...1/#post5846722
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10-24-2008, 11:43 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Singapore
Posts: 224
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deleted
Last edited by shampoosuicide; 10-24-2008 at 11:47 AM.
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10-24-2008, 01:30 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 254
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how do u guys connect the DAC to the computer?? i very much prefer the sound using USB to Optical converter then to the DAC VS direct optical from PC to DAC... The sound is so much dynamic and clear.. but i experience drop out when for example when a web page is loading or occassionally drop.. what can be done to stop this??
i tried to put foobar pirioty to realtime and also disable USB power down in control panel and it does not help
__________________
Team Grado, Alessandro, Etymotics and Shure
Source: Cambrige Audio Azur 640C
Cans: Grado RS-1, Alesssandro MS2i, Ety ER4S, Shure E5C
Amps: Cayin HA-1A tube rolled with Mullard CV4003, CV4004, 02x JJ EL84/ Ei EL84, GO-Vibe V5
Interconnects: Mogami 2803 with Neutrik ProFi, Belden 89259 with Neutrik ProFi, QED Silver Spiral
Power Cords: Belden 19364 for amp, Belden 83803 for CDP
Power Conditioner: Xindak XF-1000
Home Rig: CA Azur 640C > Mogami 2803 > Cayin HA-1A > RS-1
Portable setup: Sony D-321 -> G0-Vibe V5 -> E5C
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10-24-2008, 01:39 PM
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500+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NY, NY
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakedtoes
how do u guys connect the DAC to the computer?? i very much prefer the sound using USB to Optical converter then to the DAC VS direct optical from PC to DAC... The sound is so much dynamic and clear.. but i experience drop out when for example when a web page is loading or occassionally drop.. what can be done to stop this??
i tried to put foobar pirioty to realtime and also disable USB power down in control panel and it does not help .gif)
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Most likely you'd benefit from a second, dedicated USB card in your computer. USB2 claims a 480Mb/sec transfer rate, but that is shared with all the ports, and when other devices use the I/O it can slow down tremendously (much moreso than other technologies like firewire). Most likely starting the application is accessing the USB bus in some way causing the throughput to th converter to stutter for a sec.
If you get a PCI USB card (they're pretty inexpensive) you can connect only the adapter to it and you shouldn't have any issues.
Of course it could be something else...
__________________
Xfi Fatal1ty (Coax, ASIO)-->Compass (OPA Sun V2)-->Little Dot MKIII (GE 5-star)-->HD600/SR325is/HFI-780 (S-Audio recable)/DT250-80
Gone: SR80, SR225, Sony 7506
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10-24-2008, 03:54 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakedtoes
how do u guys connect the DAC to the computer?? i very much prefer the sound using USB to Optical converter then to the DAC VS direct optical from PC to DAC... The sound is so much dynamic and clear.. but i experience drop out when for example when a web page is loading or occassionally drop.. what can be done to stop this??
i tried to put foobar pirioty to realtime and also disable USB power down in control panel and it does not help .gif)
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What u have heard is because of the computer interface with the converter.
The most important parameter in the converter is the frequency source, which relate to power supply regulation and the JITTER.
that's why u can never hear good sound on that, unless u are willing to pay for Monarchy or Trend or other signal processors. Not long into the future, there will be a product, cost effective and good from the designer of OPA Earth.
__________________
HTPC -> [BlueJeans Fiber Optic] -> DAC-19MK3 -> [ CAST] -> CIA-400 -> [ VDH Goldwater ]-> KEF-CRESTA10 modded
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10-24-2008, 07:11 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 22
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got my zero and the Hdam's earth and moon. In trying to mod the zero, taking the caps out of the audio path, I come across quite an offset at the outputs resp. 50 and 80 mv. Have to see what to do about it.
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