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Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: A Japanese headfier's monologue (Sasaki)
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A few weeks back I built an AMP6 kit from 41Hz audio and as one can imagine it's definitely an improvement over the T-Amp in all areas. I'm very pleased with how it sounds and a nice case is currently being built to house it. I just swapped the Solens for some M-Caps tonight, but so far I'm not sure if I like them better, which was a surprise. I got some PRP resistors that'll be replacing the stock input resistors as well as some 16ga Neotech wire for the speaker outs.
I'm also building one of these for a friend which will have a Noble volume pot and an input selector switch. Other than those two parts they'll be identical so it'll be interesting to compare them to see if there are any audible differences, if any.
Thanks Dcheming, I am in the beginning of a Amp6 build and those are some sweet pics, very informative. What are you using for power? I was thinking of a Elpac wall wart, though I am still searching for the watt and current requirements for the Amp6. Was it your idea or someone elses recommendation to introduce the caps on the input side.
For power I'm using a Pyramid PS-9KX which supplies 13.8VDC at 5A. I would get something that can supply at least an amp continuous. I like the Pyramid models because they're easy to find, cheap for the power level, and are versatile due to the binding posts. The PS-3KX can be found for under $20.
As for the input caps, if the audio signal passes through it I use film caps wherever is possible in every single project I build. That's just how I do things, but yeah I read about it too while researching the T-Amp mods.
I haven't even started building the other amp yet since I'm still waiting on some parts, but I'll definitely take pics when I do. My goal is to keep the signal wiring as short as possible so I'm going to mount the selector toggle on the back panel right beside the input jacks. Also the volume pot will be mounted as close as possible to the toggle and will be connected to the front panel by a 1/4" stainless shaft. I'm going to try to use the leads of the input caps to connect the pot to the amp to reduce the amount of wire. For the two status LED's I didn't really want to drill two holes in the front panel so I'm planning on using a single two color LED instead.
Thanks! And please make sure you post pics and details, this is a very worthy project.
dcheming: I noticed the Pyramid PS-9KX pushes 13.8 volts, isn't that a little close to the max a Charlize or Amp six can handle (14V)? I wouldn't want to smoke this new toy. Not much room for fluctuations there.
As for the input caps, if the audio signal passes through it I use film caps wherever is possible in every single project I build. That's just how I do things, but yeah I read about it too while researching the T-Amp mods.
great photos so a novice like me can follow. thanks,
The big filter cap won't be used since the amp's going to be powered by an external regulated power supply. The smaller ecap isn't installed yet, but it's going to be mounted horizontally underneath the board.
For power I'm using a Pyramid PS-9KX which supplies 13.8VDC at 5A. I would get something that can supply at least an amp continuous. I like the Pyramid models because they're easy to find, cheap for the power level, and are versatile due to the binding posts. The PS-3KX can be found for under $20.
Please keep us posted
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