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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 11:56 AM
hoosterw's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
Dex

When in Fig3 it says "unclick" the opposite side what does this mean in practice?

Does that mean to do the same operation as was done on the first side or something else. Where is the "unclicker" to be unclicked located?

Will I break something if I just brink the original side up until the other side releases?
Maybe I can answer.

Indeed you need to do the same as with the first side. Make sure that the first side is as closed as it can be. This sounds weird I know .
I mean that once the first side is opened you need to keep it close to the locking pins and not open it up as far as it can go.

The closer it is to the locking pins the easier the opposite side will open. This is where most have the difficulty because they fully open the first side and then try to open the opposite side. This will not work.

If you brink you will definitively damage the housing parts and probably break the plastic locking pins. NOT advised.

I hope this clarifies.

Hans
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 02:31 PM
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Phew! I'm glad you stepped in there, Hans, before I could stammer a far less-satisfactory explanation... Steve, I did come up with a little trick that has helped with subsequent openings, as well as a photo you might find useful. See below.

My Own Private i(da)Qube!

I'm pleased to report that I finally purchased an iQube on Sunday at the Netherlands Meet (aka DutchJam '08), where Hans was offering a "Meet Special" that was just too attractive to pass up! Sure, I'd been setting some funds aside since I originally returned the review sample, but make no mistake, Mrs. Dex will kill me should she ever discover how much these things actually cost! But since I had already effectively characterized the iQube's sound as "to die for", I suppose that's only appropriate...

The real clincher for me was having the opportunity to compare the iQube to the Graham Slee Voyager that Hans had in the house. Now, the Voyager is an absolutely superb little amp, and I have to say I was shocked at how lovely it sounded, especially considering its rather undistinguished (and that's perhaps being overly kind...) feel and appearance. But with my Edition 9s and PROline 2500s, I found the Voyager to be on the warm/dark side of neutral for my taste (and very similar indeed to the LaRocco PRII [mk2]). So, once again, the iQube managed to carry the day. And I carried home iQube #20080140 (though I've already begun calling it "140", for short! ).

It took me about an hour in front of the telly that evening to open it up for the very first time. Fortunately, I took the precaution of trimming my fingernails beforehand to avoid scratching the rubberized paint as I struggled, grunted and groaned! In the iQube manual, it states: "After a few times opening and closing the unit, the locking construction will become easier to open." So, finally having achieved victory, I set about gently massaging (extra emphasis here on "gently") the 3 plastic clips on the chassis, in order to "fool" the unsuspecting iQube into thinking that it had been already opened-up on numerous occasions.*

Result? I can now do the deed reliably in about 5 seconds!

Here's a photo of the correct opening orientation highlighting those 3 plastic locking clips:



*Disclaimer: Hans informs me that excessive rubbing of the three clips can result in a loosened interface of the battery-compartment cover and cause undesirable "rattling" to occur. So exercise extreme caution as you exercise the clips; work them very gently and gradually, replacing the cover frequently to assess your progress, until the correct degree of suppleness is achieved for "easy-opening", while still allowing for a nice tight cover/chassis interface.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 02:50 PM
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I still have not gotten my 123 open but I continue working on the other side with the two clips. My fingers are getting sore. Now I am not just fighting against a single clip as on the first side but two. If I keep up the pressure on these two clips will this eventually loosen then like what you did Dex?

I want to put the rechargeable batteries in so this is not a problem for a while.

Given the difficulty in doing this operation I think rechargeable batteries should be standard with the qualification that the user might be able to change out the batteries when the rechargeable ones fail to recharge.
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Last edited by slwiser; 03-18-2008 at 03:00 PM.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
I still have not gotten my 123 open but I continue working on the other side with the two clips. My fingers are getting sore.

I want to put the rechargeable batteries in so this is not a problem for a while.

Given the difficulty in doing this operation I think rechargeable batteries should be standard with the qualification that the user might be able to change out the batteries when the rechargeable ones fail to recharge.
Steve, hang in there, we'll get you through this! My fingers were killing me after the initial opening the other night and I totally understand your frustration here. Maybe you can set aside 123 for a couple of hours to allow some sensation of digital feeling to return...

But when you feel up to come back to it, do this:

Open the top side (the one with the single clip at the rear). Press it partially closed again (with your thumb over the portion where there isn't a clip underneath) until you hear a very slight "click". There should be a discernible gap of about 1mm between the cover and the chassis.

Now, pull upward on the opposite side with your 4 fingers, working them front-to-back, back-to-front. It should "click" and eventually come free.

With the cover off, try the clip massaging technique as I outlined in the post above.

Good luck!
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexdexter View Post
Open the top side (the one with the single clip at the rear). Press it partially closed again (with your thumb over the portion where there isn't a clip underneath) until you hear a very slight "click". There should be a discernible gap of about 1mm between the cover and the chassis.
Got it, the secret if there is any, is the statement above for the second side. Thanks, Dex.

Now can the loose case opening go back on either way?
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Last edited by slwiser; 03-18-2008 at 03:22 PM.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 03:24 PM
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I'm going to try and open the unit tonight. Have been putting it off. Luckily the batteries last for a while.

Dex, I agree with your comments on the voyager. In fact, I was loaned a unit that I've been comparing to my PRII mkII for the last week and will be posting a summary of what I heard shortly. Didn't compare with the iQube as mine's still only so-so burnt-in and needs more time. Based on my limited listening thus far the iQube is the most neutral of the aforementioned amps.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
Got it, the secret if there is any, is the statement above for the second side. Thanks, Dex.

Now can the loose case opening go back on either way?
Congrats, Steve!

Yes, either way is the same. Just replace the side with the the 2 clips first.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
I still have not gotten my 123 open but I continue working on the other side with the two clips. My fingers are getting sore. Now I am not just fighting against a single clip as on the first side but two. If I keep up the pressure on these two clips will this eventually loosen then like what you did Dex?

I want to put the rechargeable batteries in so this is not a problem for a while.

Given the difficulty in doing this operation I think rechargeable batteries should be standard with the qualification that the user might be able to change out the batteries when the rechargeable ones fail to recharge.
Indeed like Dex says, let it rest. Once your fingers are getting tired it will for sure not work. Also it is not force that will do the trick. If it doesn't go, more force will also not do it.

There is a caveat you can do, DISCLAIMER: THIS IS ON YOUR OWN RISK.
Once you have opened one side you can enter a small screwdriver into that side fully to the closed side. then fix the lid against the screw driver and while holding them both together flip it open (using the screw driver as a sort of lever)

Push the handle of the screw driver down, causing the point to go up and flip the top side open.





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Last edited by hoosterw; 03-18-2008 at 04:38 PM.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 04:45 PM
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Noooooo!

Trust me, Hans, your screwdriver will be the only one to touch the hallowed interior of iQube 140 (and, hopefully, not any time soon! )!

BTW, have you ever considered a second career as a hand-model?

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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 04:46 PM
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Congrats Dex on your purchase! I believe I missed that part or just don't remember anymore lol!
That is a real real real lovely amp. Best I've heard so far. I like the PRII better because it's heavier on the bottom end but it's so neutral.
It looks and feels real good too. Enjoy your new thingy!
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2008, 03:03 AM
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If the case gets really loose, because of the tabs would that be covered under warranty?
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2008, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ihatepopupads View Post
If the case gets really loose, because of the tabs would that be covered under warranty?
Well, If the tabs or casing are faulty yes it will be covered.
But if it is due to normal wear and tear or your own modification, it is not covered. So the rubbing/massaging of the tabs is at your own risk. If after that the casing is too loose it will not be covered.

Hans.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2008, 10:40 AM
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This is a very good portable amp. I am really really enjoying it with my Triple.Fi.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2008, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoosterw View Post
Well, If the tabs or casing are faulty yes it will be covered.
But if it is due to normal wear and tear or your own modification, it is not covered. So the rubbing/massaging of the tabs is at your own risk. If after that the casing is too loose it will not be covered.

Hans.
Thanks Hans, where is the amp made ?
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2008, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Contrastique View Post
Congrats Dex on your purchase! I believe I missed that part or just don't remember anymore lol!
That is a real real real lovely amp. Best I've heard so far. I like the PRII better because it's heavier on the bottom end but it's so neutral.
It looks and feels real good too. Enjoy your new thingy!
Thanks, Indra, don't know how you could've missed it, we celebrated with champagne, cake, and a brass band!

I think that when you consider amps the caliber of the iQube, PRII, Voyager, etc. it really all comes down to personal preference and system synergy. That I've found the iQube to play on the same level with my gear as the CanAmp is still quite remarkable to me, and I'm absolutely thrilled by my decision to bring #140 into the fold. To be able to enjoy essentially the same experience at home or on the road is pretty special indeed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoosterw View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ihatepopupads View Post
If the case gets really loose, because of the tabs would that be covered under warranty?
Well, If the tabs or casing are faulty yes it will be covered. But if it is due to normal wear and tear or your own modification, it is not covered. So the rubbing/massaging of the tabs is at your own risk. If after that the casing is too loose it will not be covered.
That's entirely understandable, Hans. Although I think that one would have to be an absolute brute to bend those tabs past the point-of-no-return, undoubtedly, somebody will manage to do just that, if they do not exercise moderation and due caution as I described earlier. (So gently, folks, gently! )

So, in the event of such an occurrence, do you keep spare tabs on-hand? They look easy enough to replace if one can manage to safely disassemble the chassis.
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