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Okay, here's the scoop on the F5005 changes to the original mods.
Before you start, you need to open up the driver chamber and remove the blu-tak from the back of the driver. If the foam plug is pulled out with it, just shove it back in. If you forget to do this, the headphones will not sound very good at all with these mods.
Next you'll need to open up two of the spaces closest to the "front" of the headphones, which will be right by one of the screws for the middle chamber:
Once you have this space opened up, you can use the blu-tak you pulled out, and possibly add a little more, to make a thick disc like this:
Just lay the disc down over both the two openings, and the slit on the side of the earcup. You want it to go right up to the edge of the earcup so that it completely covers the slit:
Gently fold it down on the sides to start sealing up the space beneath it, but be very careful not to push down in the middle and collapse the whole structure:
Once you have it in place and roughly shaped, use a small screwdriver or similar tool to press it down all around the edge until you have a perfect seal isolating the underside from the top:
To verify that the path is clear underneath, shine a flashlight into the slit from the outside and look for the light underneath the acoustic silk:
Also shine the flashlight from the side with the acoustic silk to make sure you don't have any leakage between the two sides (except where it shines through the driver itself, as in the picture):
Now you can close the phones back up, making sure to put all the dampening material back inside as well, and you have yourself a F5005.
Fitz...how on earth do you come up with these simple yet ingenious ways!?! Over time, you think the blu-tack "chamber" will come apart?
Unless you make it really thin (where the disc is "floppy"), it should hold up quite well for as long as you own the phones. The tak has a tendency to actually stiffen up over time, which is why you often have to stretch and pull a new piece to get it pliable enough to work with. And using a screwdriver to indent it all around makes it hold much tighter than just pressing with your finger.
Edit: And as for how I come up with them. I've probably opened up my phones one to two hundred times to try different stuff, often going back to things I tried earlier to refresh my memory of how it sounded. And believe me, in the process my ears have taken the abuse of countless unspeakably bad mods that would make even a deaf person cringe.
Great advice on making an indent all around the disk. Now..I am counting the days, hours, mintues until I get home next week
If anyone tried the F5000 (with and without the dampening material) and F5005 I would love to hear their feedback here.
Originally Posted by Fitz
Unless you make it really thin (where the disc is "floppy"), it should hold up quite well for as long as you own the phones. The tak has a tendency to actually stiffen up over time, which is why you often have to stretch and pull a new piece to get it pliable enough to work with. And using a screwdriver to indent it all around makes it hold much tighter than just pressing with your finger.
__________________ Analog Source: Technics 1210MK5 with KAB's Fluid Dampener, Sumiko headshell, cardas tonearm wires, Denon DL103R Cart. + AudioQuest Jaguar tonearm cable + MC Stepup Transformer + Cambridge 640P Preamp + SLA Battery Powered Transformer based Preamp
Ill give my impressions, I only tryed the F5000 with the white fiber, not fiberless.
The diffs in the F5000 and F5005:
The F5005 brings back alittle excitment and flair of the W5000.
The bass is still much stronger than the stock, but alittle less than the F5000. I think that some of it is alittle less mid bass kick, but the low bass actually remains the same, verry deep.
The 3D effect of the stock is back as well as the detail, but beware the F5005 brings back the extreme sensitivity of the stock so you have to watch out for humms and buzzes from other equiptment.
-greg
__________________
Toshiba SD-9200 -> Fitz Mod SPC ICs-> FM JA Audio 6as7 12ax7 Amp Mazda grey plates-> F5005 & AKG K240 Sextets
Toshiba SD-9200 -> ICs -> [flea watt amp in the works] -> DIY full range horns Feedback
1st Gen Ipod Nano -> KSC75
Wow...sounds like best of the both worlds; W5000 and F5000.
I can't wait to change my sig to "F5005"
Originally Posted by phergus_25
Ill give my impressions, I only tryed the F5000 with the white fiber, not fiberless.
The diffs in the F5000 and F5005:
The F5005 brings back alittle excitment and flair of the W5000.
The bass is still much stronger than the stock, but alittle less than the F5000. I think that some of it is alittle less mid bass kick, but the low bass actually remains the same, verry deep.
The 3D effect of the stock is back as well as the detail, but beware the F5005 brings back the extreme sensitivity of the stock so you have to watch out for humms and buzzes from other equiptment.
-greg
__________________ Analog Source: Technics 1210MK5 with KAB's Fluid Dampener, Sumiko headshell, cardas tonearm wires, Denon DL103R Cart. + AudioQuest Jaguar tonearm cable + MC Stepup Transformer + Cambridge 640P Preamp + SLA Battery Powered Transformer based Preamp
Fitz...juz so im clear with the F5005 mods (and dont screw it up somehow ), im gonna reconfirm with ya on main pts.
1. remove the small pea-tak behind the drivers (basically remove the ori mod #2)
2. remove 2slats of bluetak on ring, install and seal with "ravioli-tak"
3. keep everything else the same
question: do we keep or remove the the white dampining material? (im currently using it with as i find the extending treble energy without, abit fatiqueing)
ps:sorry for the 20questions
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In music the passions enjoy themselves. - NIETZSCHE
"If you don't have OCD you aren't an audiophile. Who doesn't want to get better sound and obsess every day about it?" - Patrick82