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That's a pretty well hidden auction unless you have a specific search for HP-3, or a generic search for anything Yamaha. The word headphone is no where in the listing and it's in the Music - Accessories category. Not exactly where I look for headphones.
I have a very long list of specific search strings that are executed automatically.
Lately I'm getting a whole ton of false positives though, and I'm not sure why.
The only guy who finds stuff i don't is Tyre, i think. Stuff I'm looking for, anyway.
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Team Planar | Team Sturzhelm | Team Cheap Bastards If the monster is immortal, either it does not exist, or there are two.
Right now I'm listening to Putumayo's Music from the Coffee Lands with my ATH-2 that's damped with super felt. This is a very good combination. So far this is the best that the ATH-2s have sounded. There's even some out of the head sound. One track in particular, it sounded like the acoustic guitarist was playing behind my left shoulder.
I don't get much head stage with music you'd expect to get it with like orchestral music. Part of that might be because I dislike how they sound with orchestral music so much, I just haven't given them the chance.
The ATH-2s seem to really like funky music. It seems to mask the problems with the ATH-2.
The ATH-2s seem to really like funky music. It seems to mask the problems with the ATH-2.
In the short time I have been using orthos (and with my limited experience), I have found that they are very good at latin music and percussions in general. My Pro30s better than the SFIs hybrids I have around.
Alright I was asked to summarise my experience modding a YH-1 so here is my, hopefully helpful, guide. All information was skimmed off wualta, ericj, and I'm sure various other third parties.
Step 1 is to remove the driver from the baffle. This is a bit annoying and hand cramping, but fairly straightforward. Observe the naked baffle:
Take note of the screw placements. Peel back the earpads as slightly as possible over these areas to expose the black bumps (the screws are under black double-sided tape, you'll need direct lighting to make them out, try feeling around with your finger for the bumps). I suggest scraping the tape off the screws, either with your fingernails or screwdriver, then we can start unscrewing. Support the strut (the bit with the white L or R on it) with your palm and support the back of the earcup with the rest of your (non-dominant) hand. With your dominate hand get unscrewing. The first time you do this it can be frustrating if the screws are as stubborn for you as they were for me, but so long as the strut and earcup are properly supported you should be able to use a decent amount of force without hurting anything. Be mindful not to slip and slash the veil covering the center of the driver. Remember: lefty loosey
That's honestly probably the hardest part of the mod, congratulations. Take the yellow fabric and felt strips out and put them away.
Ok part 2 is making and assembling your damping materials. You will need: 2 circles of felt of different size, paper (I used a birthday card), and springy foam (about 1cm thick). Cut everything, except one of the felts, to the size of the driver, and arrange everything in this order with the smaller felt right behind the driver (imagine the driver on top (and imagine I cut those in proper circles))
The final felt (the first one you put in) serves to cover the vents on the housing, so it should be large enough to hug the sides of the housing like so
Part 3 is gasketing the driver. Get some Tak or Caulking rope or some sort of puddy/clay and make a ring around the face of the driver like so:
I used more caulk than necessary, you need only a thin circle. Press down on the material to make sure none goes into the holes. Theres a notch on the bottom of the baffle and the earcup that hook up to hold the cable. Line those up (with the cable inbetween to be sure) and press down so the driver and baffle are connected. The real reason for this is to prevent bass from leaking out between the driver and baffle, but it also leaves you with one less part to have to screw around with.
At this point put everything back together (dampening materials sit in the earcup BEHIND the driver, remember ) and give a listen. Hopefully the sound is either just right or a bit too dark. If it's too bright you're probably using denser fabric than me and might consider seeking a different sort of felt. The first two cases, yes even if you think it's fine as is, leads to the final part: the reflex "dot".
This will help to fine tune the treble and manages rather dramatic changes with just labels, tape, post it notes, or somesuch. Dissasemble the headphone again and check out the back of the driver. Place a label of some sort on some of the holes at the top of the driver like so
How many dots you cover is up to taste and will differ depending on the density of your felt, but here's my general guide. 2 dots = flat. 3 dots = a nice treble sparkle (I went with this). 5 dots = extreme sibillance. UPDATE: This is also highly dependant on your system. Since my move to a warmer amp I've been using 5 dots.
Listen attentively and you may change your mind about the sound and go back to experiment with reflex dots, but other than that you're done!
If I've made any mistakes in this please point them out so I can improve the guide.
In the short time I have been using orthos (and with my limited experience), I have found that they are very good at latin music and percussions in general. My Pro30s better than the SFIs hybrids I have around.
Music from the Coffee lands includes African music as well as latin. And a wide variety of each at that. It's a very good album.
In the short time I have been using orthos (and with my limited experience), I have found that they are very good at latin music and percussions in general. My Pro30s better than the SFIs hybrids I have around.
The Neo3 is a 3" planar transducer capable of reproducing high frequencies with great detail and controlled dispersion. The large radiating area of the Neo3 is several times larger than any dome tweeter, resulting in very low distortion and an effortless sound. Comes with an attached damped rear chamber, which may be removed for dipole use. This unit can be combined with either the surface mount or flush mount faceplate kit for attractive installation in any speaker cabinet.
* Power Handling: 20 watts RMS/50 watts max
* Impedance: 4 ohms
* Frequency range: 2,000-20,000 Hz
* SPL: 93 dB 2.83V/1m
* Dimensions: 3-1/2" L x 2-5/8" W x 1/2" D
The Bohlender Graebener Neo Series of planar transducers feature push-pull neodymium magnets, extremely light Kaladex(R) diaphragms, and an etched planar aluminum conductor. There are no heavy voice coils, glue joints, or surrounds to inhibit the reproduction of the signal, hence there is no cone break-up resonance, phase incoherence, or signal smearing that is common in conventional drivers. The Neo Series drivers deliver clean, airy, transparent sound that is inherently natural and musically pleasing. Plus, the purely resistive impedance of the Neo Series makes an easy load for your power amplifier and greatly facilitates crossover design. Completely shielded for safe implementation in multimedia and A/V systems.
The standard Neo Series drivers use a uniform magnet system and radiate throughout the surface of the driver. The result is a transducer with a higher sensitivity and higher maximum output capabilities. However, since the radiating area is much wider, horizontal off-axis response is not as good as with the PDR version. This produces a very narrow "listening window" that has rapidly decreasing high-frequency output outside of this window. When highest efficiency or tightly controlled directivity are the goals, the standard version is still the unit of choice.
Specifications: *Power Handling: 20 watts RMS/50 watts max *Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.5 ohms *Frequency range: 2,000-20,000 Hz *SPL: 93 dB 2.83V/1m *Dimensions: 3-1/2" L x 2-5/8" W x 1/2" D.
The Neo3-PDR uses the progressive drive and radiation technology to improve upon the horizontal dispersion of the Neo3. The overall presentation of the Neo3-PDR is extremely clear and refined, and is reminiscent of the sound of electrostatic speakers. With an off-axis response to match most 1" dome tweeters, the Neo3-PDR is a very capable tweeter that will outperform most domes in the <$100 price range. Comes with an attached damped rear chamber, which may be removed for dipole use. Use with either faceplate kit for easy cabinet installation.
* Power Handling: 20 watts RMS/50 watts max
* Impedance: 4 ohms
* Frequency range: 2,000-28,000 Hz
* SPL: 90.5 dB 2.83V/1m
* Dimensions: 3-1/2"L x 2-5/8"W x 1/2"D
The Bohlender Graebener Neo Series of planar transducers feature push-pull neodymium magnets, extremely light Kaladex(R) diaphragms, and an etched planar aluminum conductor. There are no heavy voice coils, glue joints, or surrounds to inhibit the reproduction of the signal, hence there is no cone break-up resonance, phase incoherence, or signal smearing that is common in conventional drivers. The Neo Series drivers deliver clean, airy, transparent sound that is inherently natural and musically pleasing. Plus, the purely resistive impedance of the Neo Series makes an easy load for your power amplifier and greatly facilitates crossover design. Completely shielded for safe implementation in multimedia and A/V systems.
BG's innovative Progressive Drive and Radiation technology uses a special magnet system and a unique resistive damping mechanism to create a radiating area that decreases with increasing frequency. This makes the element act like a very narrow ribbon at high frequencies, yet can take advantage of the larger radiating area at lower frequencies. The result is superior horizontal dispersion, which creates a more uniform power response, resulting in more apparent top-end and improves the imaging capabilities. The PDR system does come with the cost of several dB of sensitivity, but it usually still high enough for most applications. The PDR units are the elements of choice for conventional hi-fi loudspeakers.
Specifications: *Power Handling: 20 watts RMS/50 watts max *Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.5 ohms *Frequency range: 2,000-28,000 Hz *SPL: 90.5 dB 2.83V/1m *Dimensions: 3-1/2"L x 2-5/8"W x 1/2"D.
And what the implications are for constructing headphones with them. I'm assuming the PDRW would be better due to better imaging(??), but maybe it doesn't matter. I'm not really sure exactly what the construction differences are and what the implications are.
If I read the text correctly, both claim to have a removable dampening. As far as I can tell, one does something special with the magnet setup to make it have more dispersion. Exactly what, I'm not sure. And in context of headphones, I don't know if that is good or bad.
I'm assuming the dampening is a good thing for phones tho(?).
) and give a listen. Hopefully the sound is either just right or a bit too dark. If it's too bright you're probably using denser fabric than me and might consider seeking a different sort of felt. The first two cases, yes even if you think it's fine as is, leads to the final part: the reflex "dot".
Linear Mode
