APureSound: The Ultimate Cable Manufacturer Introduces The V3 Headphone Cable

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by UtzY

Not quite on topic ...but [Ak]Zip do you have more pictures from the inside of an MDR R10,pictures with their driver?? Please post them on Driver Pics Thread, or here... does not matter (same story with other world class headphones) You have a great camera, you had seen a great variety of headphones from inside out Can you ? Sorry for the offtopic!

I did not take any other photo's of the driver or the inside of the headphones as I have no need to. The one photo was take to show that the wire is soldered directly to the driver and that there is no splicing.

Thanks,
Alex

[nikongod]

edited:
i jsut wrote some pretty f***ed up s**t!

i do disagree with many of alex's comments on the quality of the R10 cable. some very trick features are downplayed by him.

to add to that: although i dont agree with re-cabling (or doing much of anything short of restoration and repair) of rare headphones for the risks of changing a sound and simple damage, it looks like very nice work.

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by nikongod

edited:
i jsut wrote some pretty f***ed up s**t!

i do disagree with many of alex's comments on the quality of the R10 cable. some very trick features are downplayed by him.

to add to that: although i dont agree with re-cabling (or doing much of anything short of restoration and repair) of rare headphones for the risks of changing a sound and simple damage, it looks like very nice work.

First of all these headphones main reason for recable is because the stock cable is of such poor build quality that it came to me damaged with the left channel cutting in and out.

Also, what part of what I wrote do you not agree with? Have you actually ever looked at the R10 cable? If not I high suggest you do before making comments like this. If you have seen the stock cable (and not just from the outside) then I would like to know what you consider a bad cable if you don't consider the R10 cable bad. I have recabled most all headphones and this has got to be up there with one of the worst cables I have ever seen on a headphone.

-Alex-

[Edwood]

The stock R10 cable is incredibly fragile and poorly assembled. Believe it or not, the center yoke (Y section where left and right cables meet) is held together inside with ZIP TIES.

My cable was already damaged when I bought mine used many years ago. I made repairs, and in the process I can already see the cable has started to oxidize and the cable itself is quite fragile.

I am quite impressed with your work, Alex. Depending on how well, or badly I do with tax time, I may be sending my R10's your way.

-Ed

[Edwood]

Originally Posted by nikongod

edited:
i jsut wrote some pretty f***ed up s**t!

i do disagree with many of alex's comments on the quality of the R10 cable. some very trick features are downplayed by him.

The only "trick" features are the silk wrap on the outside. Which is rather fragile and prone to fraying if you are not careful. The rest of the cable is a clear tube with the small wires inside. While this makes for a pleasantly round and firm cable, you have to be really careful with wrapping/winding up the cable when you are putting the R10's away. The wires inside can get twisted up inside easily. And over time, it can cause too much twisting and damage the wire, which is probably why the cable he replaced was intermittent on one side.

So there is a rather unique cord wrapping routine I go through when putting my R10's cable away.

-Ed

[swt61]

I've had the pleasure of listening to many different headphones recabled by Alex.

I've also been able to compare Alex's cables to other well known after market cables. If you haven't heard APS cables, then you are truly missing out. They are the best headphone cables I've heard period. There are many other good cables out there, and some members that do a very nice job for a good price, but if you want the best sounding cable available (and what R-10 owner wouldn't in my book?) then Alex is the man to talk to IMHO.

[Edwood]

Is that your R10?

-Ed

[nikongod]

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip

First of all these headphones main reason for recable is because the stock cable is of such poor build quality that it came to me damaged with the left channel cutting in and out.

i did not know that. repairs are a different story.

Also, what part of what I wrote do you not agree with? Have you actually ever looked at the R10 cable?

yes, i have looked at the R10 cable.
i dont agree with comments made towards cheap copper wire (see below for gauge..) 6n copper is not cheap.
i dont agree with emphasis on differences in conductor impedance mismatch which could easily fall within the margin of error of a meter.
i dont agree with gauge emphasis! how thick of a wire you you realllly need to get all of 300mW through 20ft of cable? you could argue that the absolute max rated power is 1W, but then i could counter it with 300 being more than most people use. still, for ****s and giggles, what wire gauge is required to get 1W across 20ft of wire?

f you have seen the stock cable (and not just from the outside) then I would like to know what you consider a bad cable if you don't consider the R10 cable bad.

i consider a cable with micro-phonics bad.
a cable made with inpure metal in the wires.
and at the end of the day, Im mostly curious why to risk altering the sound signature of a headphone known for its sound with a totally different cable. i do like your cables, but why not use something closer to stock on a restoration project?

I have recabled most all headphones and this has got to be up there with one of the worst cables I have ever seen on a headphone.

your sensationalism makes this sound like a ksc75 with enamel wire wrapped around a polyester core.

the reality of things is that with the large numbers of people who have had the R10 stock there have been very few re-cables because people like how it sounds regardless of how its made.

Originally Posted by Edwood

The stock R10 cable is incredibly fragile and poorly assembled. Believe it or not, the center yoke (Y section where left and right cables meet) is held together inside with ZIP TIES.

I did not know that with the zipties.
Im not sure thats any worse than strain relief done with a knot. LOL.

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by nikongod

i did not know that. repairs are a different story.

yes, i have looked at the R10 cable.
i dont agree with comments made towards cheap copper wire (see below for gauge..) 6n copper is not cheap.
i dont agree with emphasis on differences in conductor impedance mismatch which could easily fall within the margin of error of a meter.
i dont agree with gauge emphasis! how thick of a wire you you realllly need to get all of 300mW through 20ft of cable? you could argue that the absolute max rated power is 1W, but then i could counter it with 300 being more than most people use. still, for ****s and giggles, what wire gauge is required to get 1W across 20ft of wire?

i consider a cable with micro-phonics bad.
a cable made with inpure metal in the wires.
and at the end of the day, Im mostly curious why to risk altering the sound signature of a headphone known for its sound with a totally different cable. i do like your cables, but why not use something closer to stock on a restoration project?

your sensationalism makes this sound like a ksc75 with enamel wire wrapped around a polyester core.

the reality of things is that with the large numbers of people who have had the R10 stock there have been very few re-cables because people like how it sounds regardless of how its made.

I did not know that with the zipties.
Im not sure thats any worse than strain relief done with a knot. LOL.

The wire was oxidized so that already says something about the insulation used. The ground is not an actual insulated conductor. It is a shield on each side so there is more wire if you were to measure it as a gauge which is why in fact it was a lower resistance. This has nothing to do with my meter. I used a fluke 189 meter which is way more than enough for testing something like this. It more has to do with the poor design and construction than the gauge of the wire, but if you want to take that into account the stock HD650 cable has a lower resistance on the left and right channel and has matching resistance on the ground.

You don't like microphonics? Neither do I which is why Super Nylon sleeving is offered and was given as an option to the owner. He went with the standard black techflex sleeving and even then there is little to no microphonics for the R10 because of how I installed it onto the headphones.

I honestly suggest you open up your headphones and have a look yourself at the R10 cable before you start assuming this is some sort of all mighty cable. This cable uses worse conductors than very many other headphones at a much lower price point.

At the Y split they use zip ties and on the inside of the headphones they just knot the cable.

Sony obviously put more thought into the name of the headphone than into such a sad excuse of a cable.

Until you actually open up your headphones and look inside you have no reason to further this conversation as the only thing you will be able to tell me is what is written in the manual which I do not care much about.

I have worked with Sony before and I have a very good understanding of how they work and function.

-Alex-

[immtbiker]

Does the R-10 sound better with your aftermarket cable than the shoddy Sony OEM cable??