Contributor 1000+ Member: European Group Buy Coordinator
Quote:
Originally posted by D555
That is, both DAC's right output are being utilized. The original DAC is for the 'real' right channel while the new, stacked DAC's right channel is being utilized for the left.
No, simply stacked DACs don't give you a dual DAC (like a 555 which is the real deal), both chips work just in parallel (both left channels left, both right channels for right). I've wanted to try a real dual mod for a while, just haven't found neither the time nor a cheap D-25 to butcher yet (also wouldn't mind if somebody beat me to it to make sure it works )...
Thanks for the tip. I shall see how it progresses before undertaking surgery it seems to be fine now and to be fair I am testing it with a CD that won't even play in my bulletproof car system!!
Now all I need is a good little portable amp the output is too feeble for HD580s.
Also just a quickie what would be a normal lifespan for a pair of pretty regular AA batteries in this player, does anyone know?
Hi all! This is my very first post here in Head-Fi. I am an absolute greenhorn when it comes to audio equipment and I hope that situation will improve as time passes. Please continue to be the generous and gracious folks that you guys are and I hope to learn as much as I can from you guys.
OK! Enough with the mishy mashy stuff. On with the topic of the day:
I've got a broken Sony D-F525 "CD Walkman" that's totally not functional. Reason being the flexible ribbon cable (that runs across the axis along the joint between the cover and body of the discman) has snapped due to repeated opening/closing of the cover. This cable connects the switch unit to the circuit board in the body. The switch unit has all the buttons on the player (play, stop, next/prev track, ESP etc).
This is the second time it has broken down (I brought it back to the repair center the first time round and paid 40 bucks for it to be repaired). The unit will not function at all without a proper switch unit (part number 1-475-997-11) even when I am using the wired remote control to control it.
The questions I have are...
1. Is there a viable alternative to a ribbon cable?
2. If I have to get a replacement switch unit, what can I do to ensure the ribbon cable doesn't break again?
3. Does anyone have a service manual for this pdcp handy?
The flat thin ribbon cable is susceptible to breakage:
1. From repeated flexing.
2. From environmental conditions (exposure to heat and UV rays from direct sunlight, for example, can hasten the breakdown of certain plastics making it brittle). I've seen that exposure to smoke can have a negative effect on plastics as well.
If you *really* like this unit I would suggest that it be repaired again and speak with the repair shop about the problem -- it may be that they can reinforce the ribbon cable or perhaps make a small alteration to the player so that the bend radius isn't so great.
I see those ribbon cables and cringe. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the ones used in my D-555 never break.
i just bought a sony d50 mkII, which apparently is the same as a d7. so far it makes a very pretty paperweight. it's in excellent aesthetic condition.
symptoms:
no disc spinning. when i press 'play' the display shows '00' for a second then it goes away. there is a tiny whining or grinding sound which i think comes from the laser transport, but it doesn't move. nothing moves.
any initial thoughts before i crack it open? anybody see this problem before? has anyone opened a d50 mkII / d7 before?
Might be a tracking issue. Have not cracked open an early PCDP (like D5 or D7). Early home CD players have additional adjustments in addition to the typical focus and tracking -- adjustments requiring the use of a frequency counter.
As with any adjustment, mark the original settings with a "sharpie" so you can get back to the original settings.
opened up my d50mkII which had been not playing. i knew there was power getting through the machine, as the lcd would briefly show '00' and then turn off, and there was some whining/grinding sound coming from the transport, although no spinning whatsoever.
everything was clean inside - the thing is built very solid and whoever owned it kept good care of it.
removed the 'upper' (really lower, but i had the thing upside down) PCB to expose the inner PCB with the pots. located 4 pots, correllated their labels roughly with the descriptions given elsewhere on this site, and started tweaking. i used the daredevil style of playing the disc while everything was open (it even played while upside down), and got it to an acceptable level of non-skippiness. it still skips when tapped, so there is room for improvement, but right now i am just happy the thing works.
i don't have enough listening practice to have golden ears, but it sounds nice to me. i briefly played a cd of test tones last night, and through the HP-out it covers the low end fine, seems to start rolling off at 40-60 Hz, but it will play 20Hz softly. the extreme upper end suffers from noise or distortion though. i expect the lineout handles it better, but my portapros didn't have any sound from the lineout last night so i couldn't test it.
my grado 60's are plenty loud through the lineout, however. almost too loud, for in-office listening anyway.
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UPDATE: success
Linear Mode
